We meet at the trailhead around 8:00. I normally leave a little earlier than this, but we're in no hurry today. Anyway, this hike is not as hard as ones we usually do. The trail is easy going and in short order we get our first view looking down the Hermit Gorge.
April is a nice time of the year to find blooming flowers in the Canyon. The Santa Fe Railroad built the Hermit Trail over a century ago. Even after a hundred years, many of the stone-paved sections are in excellent condition.
As we near the Hermit-Waldron Basin, we find some fossilized footprints in the stone. Apparently, some hiker thought it was cute to inscribe today's date on some rocks nearby.
We reach the Waldron Trail sign in a few more minutes. Almost ten years ago, my daughter and I were coming up the Boucher Trail from Boucher Creek and had planned to hike all the way out. It got dark on us and we were really pooped, so we camped in a nice little spot in the Hermit-Waldron Basin shown below, even though you aren't supposed to do that. We turn right at the Hermit Trail sign and head downhill. Almost immediately Santa Maria Spring comes into view. The spring was named by Mary Jane Colter, the chief architect for the Santa Fe Railroad and the Fred Harvey Company for almost fifty years. We meet Randy taking a break at the spring. He and I first met on Horseshoe Mesa six years ago where he shared some of his booze with us. To commemorate that occasion, he displays the jigger he always carries.
The rest house here is nice, complete with a couple of benches. I'm carrying the main water filter for our group, but Keith tries out his small, straw-like filter. It works well enough for him to get a good drink. Someone has cleaned up the water trough considerably since I was here last. It used to have cattails growing in it.
A large group of young hikers pulls into the spring. I'd better hoof it on down the trail, so they won't beat us to Hermit Creek. We don't want them to get one of the better campsites that we could have if we got there first. There are plenty of the usual desert type plants in the Canyon. I haven't seen this cable anchor embedded in the rock before. I suspect it supported the cable tram that used to go down to the old Hermit camp. As I approach Lookout Point, I can see that a couple of guys are climbing to the top of it. We take a break at the Point and talk to the group there. The two guys pictured below are the ones who climbed on top Lookout Point. After getting their picture, they take ours in front of the point.
The trail makes two more loops until reaching Breezy Point, named by Emery and Ellsworth Kolb due to the high winds frequently encountered here. Fortunately, the wind is calm today.
We then start down the Cathedral Stairs. Much of the stone paving and concrete work from a hundred years ago is still in place. We stop for lunch at the base of the stairs.
We find more flowers and plants after lunch. The descent below the Cathedral Stairs and Cope Butte is pretty tough on old, tired legs. I notice that the large group of young hikers is just behind us. Because I am a little tired and not feeling well, I let Keith and Alan press on ahead, so they can claim a nice camping spot at Hermit Creek.
Just before reaching Hermit Creek is the old Hermit Camp. This was a luxury campsite developed by the Fred Harvey company. It operated from around 1912 to 1930, had a tramway from the rim to the site, and even had a functional automobile to get around in camp. Only a few artifacts and wall remnants remain.
I pull into camp just ahead of the large group. Keith and Alan have already staked out a nice campsite for us. Next to our campsite under a Yucca bush is a Pink Rattlesnake. After we are unsuccessful in getting the snake to leave under his own power, Keith takes his hiking pole, picks up the snake, carries him over to the hill above the creek, and tosses him down the hill. The snake is quite docile and never once rattled during all our repeated efforts to displace him. This is the first Pink Rattlesnake I have seen. In all the excitement, I completely forgot to take a movie of all this. With the snake gone, we finish setting up camp. I'm trying out a Big Agnes Copper Spur UL2 tent for the first time. I also have the smaller UL1, but it did not have enough room inside for very much of my gear, so I bought this larger one. I like it a lot and the weight penalty for the larger size is miniscule. The entire camping area is full of various cactus. One bad move here would result in a lot of misery.
While the Park Service removed the metal ammo cans that used to be here, they left a nice pole for hanging backpacks. We considered taking the campsite by the overhang, but it seemed a little small. A little later this afternoon, a guided group of six, each with a tent, takes that site. They are pressed in there like sardines, so I hope they like being cozy.
The large group of young hikers is a high school hiking club from Washington State. They take the group campsite up by the porta-potty. Tomorrow they are headed over to Boucher Creek.
Since we have all been down to Hermit Rapids before, we decide to rest in camp this afternoon. Hermit Creek, Hermit Rapids, and many other things in this area are named for Louis Boucher. Tomorrow we are headed over to Monument Creek. MAIN INDEX | HIKING INDEX | BACK TO PREFACE | FORWARD TO DAY 2
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