ALL HIKERS

DAY 3: CLEAR CREEK TO BRIGHT ANGEL CAMPGROUND

     Last night was very cold and extremely windy.  I'm from Oklahoma and used to strong wind, but the wind gusts here were 40-50 m.p.h. all night long.  I was expecting my tent poles to break at any time, but surprisingly they did not.  The high winds did bend some of the poles, though.  The sun has come out briefly this morning, so I venture outside to 34 degree temperatures.  Clear Creek is a pretty area.

Clear Creek campsite
3-10-2006 @ 9:53		 Clear Creek
3-10-2006 @ 9:53		 Clear Creek
3-10-2006 @ 9:54

     I know a day hike to Cheyava Falls is out of the question, but I was hoping to at least explore the Obi Canyon ruins.  Just then black clouds roll in, the temperature immediately drops several degrees, the wind picks up abruptly, and the snow begins.  I guess that major front the Ranger talked about is arriving.  Since I am here alone, I think prudence dictates that I pack up and head back to Phantom Ranch.  I would hate to get snowed in here.  I eventually leave about 11:15.  The strong, gusty winds make the initial climb out quite exciting, unlike the calm, sunny descent yesterday afternoon.  I am quite relieved to get above the red dirt section and onto the easier rocky sections.

Above the descent into Clear Creek
3-10-2006 @ 12:12		 Clear Creek campsite from high above
3-10-2006 @ 12:12

     The temperature is around freezing right now, so I leave on my two shirts, fleece jacket, and rain gear.  The trail is generally slightly downhill from here to Phantom Ranch, so I am making good time.  There are snow storms on the south side.  As I pass Demaray Point, the clouds break up slightly and a little west of there I get into full sunlight for the first time today.

Snow storms on South Rim
3-10-2006 @ 1:04		 Demaray Point
3-10-2006 @ 3:03		 First real sunlight looking west
3-10-2006 @ 3:10

     I meet a couple headed to Clear Creek.  A few minutes later I talk with four brothers who are going to Clear Creek also, but may do a dry camp along the trail.  About an hour later, I pass Zoroaster Temple.

Four brothers headed to Clear Creek
3-10-2006 @ 3:15		 Zoroaster Temple
3-10-2006 @ 4:36

     As I reach the Sumner Wash cairns, I realize I have a chance to make Phantom Ranch in time for the 6:30 stew if they have any openings.  The view looking down on the Colorado River is as great as ever.

Colorado River
3-10-2006 @ 5:03		 Colorado River
3-10-2006 @ 5:10		 Colorado River
3-10-2006 @ 5:11

     I hustle down to the rock bench at the Phantom Overlook and now feel assured I will make Phantom Ranch before stew time.

   
  Rock bench - Phantom Overlook
3-10-2006 @ 5:32		  

     I reach Phantom Ranch just before six o'clock, taking just under seven hours for the hike back from Clear Creek.  I stop by the food pickup window to check on the stew dinner, but they are sold out.  I then ask about openings at the dorm.  No luck there either.  Bummer, I'm going to have to stay at the campground in cold conditions and cook my own supper.  I stop by the Ranger Station to make sure it's alright to camp off permit in the campground.  I set up my tent, cook supper, and head back to Phantom Ranch to check on breakfast tomorrow, have a beer, and write a few postcards.  Fortunately I do get the 7:00 breakfast tomorrow.

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