ALL HIKERS

DAY 1 OF HIKE:  KM 82 TO WAYLLABAMBA, 5.7 MILES

     We meet this morning in the hotel lobby at 7:00 with our packed duffel bags, leaving our suitcases in storage at the hotel.  We drive to Ollantaytambo where we meet our porters.  The town square has a statue in honor of the Incas.  On the edge of town are more ruins with a blind musician at the entrance with a sign asking for handouts.

Ollantaytambo town square
5-26-2008 @ 8:46
Inca statue
5-26-2008 @ 8:46
Blind man seeking handouts
5-26-2008 @ 9:02

     We have another warm-up hike this morning at the ruins.  They are large and quite steep and I'm not sure I need this additional exercise just before our Inca Trail hike.  However, the ruins are impressive.  As with many of the ruins, the effort to construct the terracing retaining walls must have been monumental. 

Ruins at Ollantaytambo
5-26-2008 @ 9:01
Ruins at Ollantaytambo
5-26-2008 @ 9:13
Ruins at Ollantaytambo
5-26-2008 @ 9:32

     When we are through at the ruins, we go back to the van, finish packing, and then walk down the railroad track toward the start of the Inca Trail, which is Kilometer 82.  There is a swinging bridge over the Urubamba River we must cross to start, but first we have our passports examined at the check station.  I have mine stamped with their red "Inca Trail" stamp.  Jane is a little uneasy with bridges of this nature so the group gives her a standing ovation after she crosses to the other side.

Group picture at start of hike
5-26-2008 @ 10:38
 Urubamba River swinging bridge
5-26-2008 @ 10:44
Check-in station at start of hike
5-26-2008 @ 10:45

     Beth and I brought our hiking poles with rubber tips to protect the trail.  The walking is very easy and there is little elevation change at the start.  We pass numerous flowers and plant life as we walk along.

Flowers
5-26-2008 @ 11:02
Spanish tree moss and flowers
5-26-2008 @ 11:06
Flowers
5-26-2008 @ 11:43
Flowers
5-26-2008 @ 11:43
Flowers
5-26-2008 @ 11:48

     There are several herds of animals and horses near the start.  However, pack animals are only allowed for a short distance on the trail.

Llamas with saddle bags
5-26-2008 @ 11:12
A colorful chicken
5-26-2008 @ 11:50

     It doesn't take long for our porters to catch up and pass us on the trail.  Some are carrying huge loads, so their agility and fast hiking speed are impressive.  After about an hour on the trail, we stop at one of the many small shops/rest areas where you can buy bottled water and soft drinks from the vendors, but they charge more than the regular price.  Ann uses the break to apply moleskin to some blisters on her heels.

Porters passing our group
5-26-2008 @ 12:05
Porters passing Ramiro
5-26-2008 @ 12:05
Ann tending to blisters
5-26-2008 @ 12:24

     Back on the trail far below us is a large and impressive ruin called Patallacta.  It apparently was a middle-class residential complex and agricultural station used to supply Machu Picchu with maize, the staple crop of the Incas.  The enormity of the terracing immediately stands out.

Patallacta ruins
5-26-2008 @ 1:12
Patallacta ruins
5-26-2008 @ 1:12

     Due to the slopping nature of most of the fields, almost all farming is done by hand.  We pass a farmer hard at work plowing with his ox.

   
  Farmer plowing field with ox
5-26-2008 @ 1:50
 

     I am hungry and ready for lunch, but we don't reach our lunch location until around 2:00.  I didn't know what to expect for meals, but I am impressed that we get to eat inside a tent.  The table decorations are quite pretty.  First we have sandwiches, then soup, followed by chicken and vegetables.  This was more like a full course dinner than lunch.  Victor is our head cook and does an excellent job of both food preparation and presentation.  He is also able to provide food for the vegetarians in our group.  Beth seems to have gotten over the fever she had the last few days, so that is a big relief.  No such luck on the other issue she continues to have.  I think I have acclimatized to the altitude, so I discontinue taking my altitude sickness pills. 

Our lunch tent
5-26-2008 @ 2:36
Inside the lunch tent
5-26-2008 @ 2:36
Victor, our head cook
5-26-2008 @ 2:41

     Late this afternoon we take a break at another shop/rest stop.  The pole with the red plastic sack on top indicates they serve Chicha here, a beer-like drink made from fermented corn that is very popular in Peru.  Ruben pulls out a flute and starts playing.  He is quite good and his rendition of "Hey Jude" by the Beatles is excellent.  A small boy living here is absolutely mesmerized by Ruben's playing.

Rest stop on the trail
5-26-2008 @ 4:02
Ruben playing his flute
5-26-2008 @ 4:06

     We pull into our campsite at Wayllabamba around 4:30.  Our porters have our tents completely set up.  I was concerned about the quality of Thermarest sleeping pad we would get, but it is first rate and quite comfortable.  The restrooms at the campsites do not have regular toilets.  Instead, there is a porcelain hole on the floor where you are required to squat, not quite the comfort we are used to.  However, our porters set up a toilet tent that does have a mini-toilet inside.  In a little while, our porters bring us pails of hot water and soap for washing.

Our first night's campsite
5-26-2008 @ 4:42
Toilets at the campground
5-26-2008 @ 5:10
Hot water for washing
5-26-2008 @ 5:15

    The temperature is dropping fast as sunset approaches.  While we hiked today in shorts and T-shirts, night time requires a considerable amount of clothing to keep warm.  I guess that's to be expected at our current altitude of 9,840'.  Tomorrow will be the hardest day of the entire hike at seven miles including a climb through a 13,776' pass and then a descent to 10,991'.

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