When I peak outside this morning at 6:00 A.M., I am shocked to see over eight inches of snow on the ground, ten degree temperatures, the wind blowing, and more snow coming down. I've never hiked in snow before, so this is another first for me. Since it was sunny and warm yesterday, I didn't get any crampons. The seven o'clock hiker's shuttle is late and then has extreme difficulty even getting to Yaki Point. Yep, this really is the South Kaibab trailhead.
I start down about eight o'clock. Since the snow has not been packed down on the trail, it's not too slick. As I make my way down to Cedar Ridge, the views are quite spectacular.
I arrive at Cedar Ridge in just under one hour. The wind is blowing strongly, but the snow has almost quit. I take a short break and then head on down.
When I reach the eastern edge of O'Neill Butte, I decide to shed some clothing. The snow has quit and with the sun out, it has warmed considerably. I reach Skeleton Point just after ten o'clock. This is the first time the Colorado River can be seen from the South Kaibab trail.
This is the last of the snow and only occasional puddles and mud remain. I head down the steep switchbacks the fastest I have ever done them. My other two times down this part I was having knee and toenail problems. I reach the Tipoff Point just after eleven o'clock. As I rest at one side of the building to block the wind, I have a peanut butter and jelly sandwich.
After my short lunch break, I continue down. You soon come to another fine area for viewing the river and Phantom Ranch.
In just a few more minutes, I come across a crew working on the trail.
The trail now begins a series of wide, sweeping switchbacks down to the river. The views of the river and bridge are great. However, there is something odd about the Kaibab suspension bridge that I can't quite place my finger on right now.
As I get closer to the bridge, It seems that the concrete anchors for the steel suspension cables have a fresh coat of white paint on them. It's also apparent that the rubber mats have been removed from the bridge.
Sure enough, large, new wooden planks have been laid down on the bridge with an additional built-up section for the mules to walk on.
Immediately after crossing the bridge you come to some Anasazi ruins. The round, depressed structure is called a "Kiva."
In just a few more minutes, I cross the aluminum bridge leading to Bright Angel Campground. The view looking down Bright Angel Creek is simply one of the best at the bottom. I pick out a nice site and set up my tent.
I stop by the Ranger Station to see what it is like. I am surprised that it looks more like a hospital emergency room than an office. The Ranger on duty is the same guy my daughter and I met at Hermit Creek last October. He tells me two large weather fronts are coming through in two or three more days. I certainly hope those fronts don't affect my stay at Clear Creek. I head to Phantom Ranch for my steak dinner, which, as usual, is great. Then it's back to camp to prepare for my long hike tomorrow. MAIN INDEX | HIKING INDEX | BACK TO PREFACE | FORWARD TO DAY 2
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