ALL HIKERS

DAY 4: PAPAGO CREEK TO BASE OF REDWALL

     We get up fairly early, eat, and pack our gear.  We want to be prepared if any rafts come by.  We are ready to go by 8:30 and take up a position out on the beach near the river.  Unlike yesterday, not a single raft has come by at 9:30.  We are heartbroken and decide to start up the eastern face of the cliff.  I am not looking forward to going down the other side of the cliff.  It was plenty hard going up it and I really do not enjoy going down difficult sections with my pack on.  However, Art and I are able to climb the eastern cliff face with our packs on without incident.  We are just getting ready to rope Marsha's pack up when a large group of private rafts comes by.  Our practice sessions with Marsha's distressed look must have paid off because the rafters stop and agree to give us a lift.  Art and I scramble back down the cliff and jump in the rafts.  The rafters give us a ride to the sandbar on the other side of the cliff for which we are eternally grateful.

The nice rafters
4-22-2005 @ 10:04

The nice rafters
4-22-2005 @ 10:04

The sandbar west of the cliff
4-22-2005 @ 10:05

     The walk to Hance Rapids is almost pleasant knowing we just saved three hours and a lot of energy and worry by not having to do the cliff section.  As I approach the rapids, I notice the rafters have tied up just before the rapids.  They are hiking up to the rapids to check them out before making the run.  There is quite a crowd at the rapids when I arrive.  Everyone is watching the rafters attempt to get downstream safely.  The more experienced rafters sail through unscathed, but two of the novice rafters turn over.

Marsha and Art - Hance Rapids
4-22-2005 @ 10:50

Rafters at Hance Rapids
4-22-2005 @ 10:53

Rafters at Hance Rapids
4-22-2005 @ 11:00

Rafters at Hance Rapids
4-22-2005 @ 11:01

Rafters at Hance Rapids
4-22-2005 @ 11:01

Rafters at Hance Rapids
4-22-2005 @ 11:01

     How could you ask for more than this - a nice place for a break with built in entertainment.  We start up the creek bed with its soft pea gravel.  In a little while, we come to more plants and some interesting lichen growing on rocks.  I have seen this type of lichen in Colorado at the Continental Divide, but did not realize it could survive in the arid environment here.

Globemallow
4-22-2005 @ 11:47

Brittlebush
4-22-2005 @ 11:47

Prickly Pear Cactus
4-22-2005 @ 12:43

Lichen
4-22-2005 @ 11:51

Lichen
4-22-2005 @ 11:51

Lichen
4-22-2005 @ 11:51

     We see the cairn on the east side of the creek bed and take that trail up, avoiding the precarious drop-offs I did coming down the first day.  At around 1:00, we arrive at the creek where we camped the first night .  Another couple is there doing a day hike from above the redwall.  We are going to rest here a while, have lunch, and filter water for the long uphill hike.  We plan to camp at the spot where I got sick the first day.  Tonight will be our first dry camp, so we are going to carry extra water uphill.

Couple at the creek
4-22-2005 @ 1:09

Marsha filtering water in comfort
4-22-2005 @ 1:09

     We depart the creek about 2:00.  Marsha explains that she is stronger going uphill.  That's an understatement.  She has this uncanny ability to switch to a much higher gear going uphill.  When her afterburners kick in, you had better move out of the way or risk being swept off the trail as she blows by.  She quickly fades into the distance and goes out of sight.  Art and I trudge along at a more turtle-like speed.  I am carrying an extra three liters of water as partial payback for him carrying my pack down the first day.

Lower New Hance
4-22-2005 @ 2:49

Red Canyon
4-22-2005 @ 3:30

Art resting on New Hance
4-22-2005 @ 3:53

     Art and I arrive in camp about an hour after Marsha got there.  She has already eaten her supper.  We set up our tents, cook dinner, and then relax a little.  We are not too far from the base of the redwall. 

4th night campsite
4-22-2005 @ 6:28

4th night campsite
4-22-2005 @ 6:29

Marsha and Art relaxing
4-22-2005 @ 6:29

     We discuss the plan for tomorrow and reminisce some about our trip.  Before we know it, sunset is approaching and we are treated to one of the best vistas of the entire hike.  These pictures do not do justice to the magnificent view we have. 

4th night view
4-22-2005 @ 6:44

4th night view
4-22-2005 @ 6:44

4th night view
4-22-2005 @ 6:44

     About twenty minutes later, sunset is here and we are given another great sight.

4th night sunset
4-22-2005 @ 7:08

4th night sunset
4-22-2005 @ 7:11

4th night sunset
4-22-2005 @ 7:15

     We agree to get up early tomorrow and get on the trail just after sunrise.  Our water supply has worked out well so we should have no shortages tomorrow.

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