We are up at 4:00, have breakfast, pack our gear, and head out just before sunrise. The climb out from Boucher Creek is steep and we pay special attention not to pass the start of the Boucher Trail like those hikers did two days ago. We arrive at the trail junction just after sunrise, right on plan. The steepness of these switchbacks makes for a rugged climb on dirt and fine talus. However, we are glad to be doing it in the early morning shade instead of the late afternoon sun like the three hikers we met yesterday afternoon. We finally reach a small plateau about half-way to Whites Butte. The view toward Topaz Canyon has been quite good the last hour.
The second half of the climb to Whites Butte is a lot of boulder hopping - very large boulders at that. It is equally as strenuous as the first half, but not quite a slippery as the lower part. The last few hundred feet are almost straight up. Beth and I are elated to reach the plateau by Whites Butte around 9:00, our first time to be in the sunlight this morning. As we relax looking down at our starting point far below us, we calculate we have already climbed 1700 vertical feet this morning.
After a short break, we are back on the trail. It is easy walking and almost level, a refreshing change from the last few hours. There is a flat spot for camping nearby. We are beginning the traverse around to the east side of upper Travertine Canyon. You can always tell a hiker who has been on the Tonto Trail by all the scratches on their legs from the blackbrush, which is everywhere. Our legs are showing those telltale signs.
We take another break when we reach the southern end of Travertine Canyon. It seems to us that the traverse must continue around the canyon at this level and Yuma Point is probably only fifteen minutes away. When we start out again, the trail begins to head uphill. This is not a good sign. We soon discover that the trail ascends almost vertically for another 1000'. We just thought we were having fun below Whites Butte. This section is truly tough. We struggle for another two hours climbing and slowly making our way to the top. We can see Whites Butte far in the distance.
We eventually arrive at Yuma Point around noon. Beth wants to make camp here for the night, but I insist that we press on after lunch. We compromise and agree on an extended break of two hours or so before heading on. The views from here are to die for - easily the best of my Canyon hiking career.
The trail is substantially level for a mile or so after leaving Yuma Point and is easy walking. I knew that couldn't last. Sure enough, we then reach a series of drainages we have to traverse. These are tougher than they look and the trail is again uncomfortably close to the edge in several places. Fortunately we have been in the shade for some time. Had we spent the night at Yuma Point, we would have been doing this section in the morning sun. The tough climbs this morning and these drainages have taken their toll on us. Beth and I are completely exhausted. As we head southward toward the actual trailhead, we try to see the Hermit Trail on the other side of the Hermit Gorge. We are barely able to see the trail below the Cathedral Stairs, but not any other sections.
We finally reach the official trailhead around 5:00 and are glad to be on the easier Dripping Springs Trail.
After one more hour, it is almost dark when we reach the Hermit Trail junction and our water cache. We were hoping to reach the rim tonight, but Beth and I are in no condition for any more travel. Even though you are not supposed to camp in the Hermit-Waldron Basin, we are going to do that. We simply do not think it would be wise to hike any more tonight in our poor condition. We set up our tents in a flat place where others have obviously done it, cook supper, and head to bed. MAIN INDEX | HIKING INDEX | BACK TO DAY 4 | FORWARD TO DAY 6
|
