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The upper section
of the Hermit Trail is steep and sustained, dropping almost 2000 vertical
feet in the first 2.5 miles. Passage through the Kaibab and Coconino
formations is via well defined switchbacks. Most of the Hermit Trail
was originally surfaced with large hand-fitted rock slabs that created a
smooth walking surface. Ongoing erosion has claimed much of this
remarkably labor intensive paving, but a few isolated fragments survive,
especially in the Coconino.
Pass the Waldron Trail junction at the
bottom of the Coconino and the Dripping Springs Trail near the top of the Supai Formation and drop into the Hermit Creek gorge. Santa Maria
Spring is not considered permanent, but there is usually a trickle of water
and the masonry shelter offers welcome shade.
Between Santa Maria
Spring and Cathedral Stairs the Hermit Trail is characterized by long
traverses connected by short, sharp descents. The trail runs across an
angle of repose slope, crossing high gradient drainages at roughly
perpendicular intersections. As the result, the Supai section of the
Hermit Trail has been badly damaged by the same erosional forces that shaped
the larger Canyon. Hikers must scramble across chaotic jumbles of
rocks washed down or fallen from above every time the trail crosses a gully.
It is possible to loose the trail entirely where breakdown has covered the
original route so pay attention at these crossings. The most dramatic
detour up and around a deteriorated area comes at the bottom of the Supai
just above Cathedral Stairs. The uncertain footing as well as the
impression of exposure presented here has caused inexperienced Canyon
walkers to conclude that they are engaged in a truly hazardous enterprise.
The descent becomes unrelenting at Cathedral Stairs. An endless series
of rocky switchbacks eventually leads hikers through the Redwall cliff and
down the talus below Cope Butte to the intersection with the Tonto Trail.
The Tonto Trail is an important trans-canyon route that allows access in
both directions, east to Monument Creek, west for Hermit Creek. Turn
left (west) and follow the Tonto about a mile to the Hermit Creek campsite.
Be sure to walk downstream a short distance during your stay at Hermit
Creek. The little Tapeats gorge is a real gem.
The Hermit Trail
continues another 1.5 miles beyond the established campsite at Hermit Creek
to the Colorado River and Hermit Rapid. Follow your nose down the bed
of Hermit Creek or take the cut-off from the Tonto Trail that drops to the
drainage bottom below the campsite. A little of the original trail
construction shows in the Vishnu Formation, but today the lower section of
this once impressive trail is mostly a little foot path winding quietly
through riparian vegetation to the shoreline. Hermit Rapid is a big
one, well worth the trip if time and energy allow. |